Archive for July, 2008

Waiting for Arizona Differential

I discovered that the Duster was leaking from the rear end at the pinion seal.  I sent Arizona Differential Specialists an email saying that it was leaking still after their reseal job.  They responded saying that they’ll make it right if I bring the car back in.  I responded to them saying that it’s very difficult for me to bring the car in - core hours at my job are 10 to 4 and they close at 5 pm.  I wouldn’t have time to drive home and get the car and trailer and drive to their shop.  At this point Nate from Az Differential volunteered to take my car and trailer and bring it to the shop himself – because as it turns out he lives pretty close to me.  He was going to pick it up last night but he ended up working late and forgetting about my car.  I called him and after apologizing, he said he’ll do it tonight at 6:30 pm.   In the meantime, I took some pictures of my car on the trailer outside my house.  The trailer has jack stands holding up the tongue, and I should be able to use a floor jack to hook it up to Nate’s truck.

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Transmission Pan Changed

The past three days were made up of a lot of sweat and grime for me. My garage floor is now covered in this greasy slick film. What have I been up to? Well, I’ve been working on changing out the existing oil pan to the new TCI deep tranny pan. My reason for doing that in the first place is because the existing tranny pan was leaking through the gasket in several places… so I figured why not just get an all new pan.

As usual I employed the help of the good people over at the MopowerStyle forums. Here is the relevant thread:

http://www.mopowerstyle.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89031

I’ve learned a lot through this whole process. It’s taken me three days mainly because of lack of experience. And the friends at MopowerStyle pointed out a few things to me. The pan that was on the car was already a deep pan. I did some research and found out that yes, it is a Direct Connection Deep Pan (straight from Mopar) that holds 2 quarts over stock. The TCI pan that I put on holds 4 quarts over stock so it is a little better. I also went to a Dodge dealer and got the better Mopar Performance tranny pan gasket – the kind that feels like stiff plastic as opposed to the regular flimsy foldable cork kind. The better gasket is reusable and holds up better than the cork type gasket.

Also pointed out to me by these folks is that I have a turbo action reverse manual valve body.

I’m going to go through the process of what I did to the best of my memory. The first thing I did was to open up the pan drain plug and let all the tranny fluid drain out. The fluid that drained out had a very bright and clear red color. After all the fluid drained out, I dropped the pan by removing all the pan bolts. One of the things I found inside the pan surprised me – a couple of washers! There was also very tiny bits of debris (mostly dead bug parts) and one very large dead bug. I’m pretty sure that this bug traveled to Arizona all the way from Illinois with the car.

At this time I took the chance to take a lot of pictures of the pan and the inside of the transmission. I also took off the existing filter and spacer. At the time I did not know that this pan was not stock – I assumed that the spacer that was there was stock. And because the TCI kit came with some really long bolts for the filter, I assumed that the spacer that came with the TCI kit was supposed to go below the spacer that was on the tranny. I installed the two spacers onto the transmission and then installed the new aluminum pan on the transmission, going as far as torquing up the pan bolts to the proper 13 foot per pound specification. I updated everybody at MopowerStyle and went to bed.

The next day, after reading all the responses on the forum I realized that the original pan was not stock, and that means the spacer that I found in there was not stock either. Pretty much everybody was also recommending that I adjust the bands while I am at this. Dave Schultz recommended that I get a inch per pound torque wrench so I can adjust the bands, and he also suggested that I head down to the Dodge dealer to get that nice pan gasket. After getting all that, I went to work on the tranny pan again. I dropped the pan by removing the bolts, and then took off my ridiculous double spacer and filter setup. Then I started to attempt to adjust the low/reverse band… and quickly found out that I was missing an essential tool to do this. I needed an 8 point socket because the band adjusting bolt had a square head, but all of my sockets were 6 or 12 point.

So I drove to Home Depot to find some 8 point sockets. Then I realized I had left my wallet at home so I drove back home and then back to Home Depot. I spent about half an hour looking for 8 point sockets and finally found some as part of a $80 mechanics tool kit. I got that and then went home… and by this point I was so dead tired I wanted to hit the hay.

The next morning I woke up and got to working on the car again. After some confusion I finally figured out how to adjust the low/reverse band. Turns out that doing it is quite easy… once you know how! So I finished that up and am ready to put everything back together again. I put the spacer and filter back on the tranny and tried to torque the three retaining bolts to 35 inch pounds. But the bolts that came with the TCI kit are pretty much crap – no washers and also they were ordinary pan head bolts. Torquing those up to 35 inch pounds would have destroyed the filter… so I took them out and reused the original filter bolts that were on the car – they were hex head bolts with washers and torqued up to specification without any problems.

Then I put the pan back on and tightened the pan bolts to 150 inch pounds. After that was done, I wanted to try to adjust the kickdown band. The adjusting bolt for that is on the outside of the tranny on the drivers side. But after about 15 minutes of grunting and throwing my body weight into it, I realized that the locking nut for it just did not want to come loose. So I am holding off on that adjustment for now.

I went ahead and filled up the transmission with 6 quarts of TCI Max Shift racing transmission fluid. Then I fired up the engine and let it run for about 2 minutes to get the temperature up, moved the gear selector through all gears, and rechecked the fluid level. It went down a lot so I added another 2 quarts. I tried to restart the car to check it again but the car would not start. I checked the batteries and they were low – 11.75 volts… probably not enough to turn the starter.

And that is where I am at now. I am currently charging up the two batteries and that is going to take a while. Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to try running the car again to make sure all the fluid levels are where they should be with the engine warm.

Here are the pictures:

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The first few pictures are of the original pan and filter. The sixth and seventh pictures are when I thought you were supposed to stack the new spacer on the old one. There is also a picture of the Mopar deep pan sitting next to the new TCI deep pan. And then there are pictures of the various part numbers that I could find in the transmission with the pan off.

Oil Changed

Thanks to the awesome folks over at the MopowerStyle Forums I was able to get all my questions answered and get the oil changed in my car without any problems.

The first thing I did was go out to the auto parts shop and get a new Wix oil filter. Dave Schultz (Old Hippie over at MopowerStyle) recommended using this instead of Fram. Then when I got home, I put the new oil filter on the car. It was a bit of a pain to reach down in there with those big headers in the way but I managed to get it on and tighten it up (hand tighten only!)

Then I took back out the oil drain plug and cleaned it up and cleaned the hole up also. I put the drain plug back in and torqued it up to 20 pounds per inch as per the chassis manual instructions for this car.

Then the fun part – I took off one of the Mr. Gasket header evac valves and saw that right under the hole is a baffle to prevent the oil from pouring out under hard acceleration (or deceleration since this is the passenger front side). That baffle made it slow going, but I managed to pour the oil into that hole without any problems.

I poured in one quart at a time and after each quart checked around the car for any leaks and also checked the oil dip stick. The first four quarts didn’t even register on the dip stick. After pouring in the fifth one, finally there was the tiniest smudge of oil at the very bottom of the dip stick. Then after the sixth quart the level was right between the "Add Oil" and the "Full" lines. At this point I fired up the engine and let it run for a few seconds. The oil pressure gauge was reading at 75 pounds per inch which is good.

Then after shutting the engine down I checked the dip stick – the oil level was way back down (as expected) so I proceeded to add a seventh quart to the engine. Right now the oil level is just a tad past the "Add Oil" line. I’ll leave it like that unless I hear otherwise from the people over at MopowerStyle.

Interesting – the Royal Purple motor oil… actually is indeed purple.  I didn’t expect that.

Of course I took some pictures of the process. I know – whoop-de-doo… it’s just changing the oil! But you never know someone out there might find these useful… so here goes:

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Old Oil Out… New Oil In… Where?

I decided to get things moving along in hopes of getting the car ready by the middle of July for drag racing. So I put the car on jack stands and drain the engine oil and take off the filter. Then just as I am heading out the door to go to Checkers to get a new filter and dump the used oil, it occurs to me that I haven’t seen an oil filler cap on the engine.

So I look. And I look. And I look. There isn’t one. I crack open my trusty 1973 Chassis Service Manual and it says there’s supposed to be one right in the passenger side valve cover. I’m guessing my covers aren’t stock because there arent anything on the valve covers except for the Mr. Gasket header evac thingy.

So, where do I pour in the new oil?

Thread is here:

http://www.mopowerstyle.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88981

Electric Water Pump

I ordered a CSR billet aluminum electric water pump from Dave (who runs the MopowerStyle forums), and it has arrived today.  It will go into the car eventually to replace the weak pump that is on there now.

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